Generally, when pistons are replaced with ones within a few grams of the stock weight balancing is not required, but is still recommended for improved life and performance. Any time there is a significant change in component weight, if the engine is “stroked”, or if the engine will be subjected to continuous revving, it should be balanced. Marine, racing, and heavy duty applications must be balanced.

Is it possible to over-cam my computer controlled engine?

Yes, and it happens more often than you would think by novices, gear heads, and even some professionals. We recommend that you allow us to choose the correct cam for your application. If you want to make the choice, we will be happy to guide you to the correct one.

I need more power for my vehicle. What is the best way to address this issue?

We assembled our “STAGE I, II, and III” engine packages with you the customer in mind. We have taken all the worry out of building an engine with these packages. We custom tailor the compression and camshaft to your exact application, and the internal components are fully balanced. Most “crate” engine packages available from the manufacturer and mail order stores are not balanced and are not built specifically to your needs. The engine may have too much compression or too much camshaft for your tow vehicle, may not be emissions legal, etc. We will build the perfect engine for your needs, every time.

Should I buy my parts from a discount speed shop and bring them to you to build my engine?

We are happy to work with the parts you bring us providing they are correct for the application, however if you want the correct parts at the best prices, come to us for the entire job. If you find a part cheaper from somewhere else, bring us that advertisement and we will do our best to match or beat that price. Keep in mind that when you place your order for the engine kit, unless you get your core parts measured first, you have to guess at the sizes for pistons, rings, bearings, etc. Imagine your frustration when you have to return half of your parts because they won’t fit, not to mention loss of time, shipping costs, etc. Another issue is warranty. If you supply the parts we cannot provide a warranty on your engine since we cannot guarantee the parts. Allowing us to supply the parts gives us the ability to build your engine correctly and gives you piece of mind that you are covered in the unlikely event of a problem.

What type of piston ring do you recommend?

We use a moly faced ring whenever possible in our engines due to their many favorable qualities. They “break in” quickly, can deal with a fair amount of heat and abuse, and are gentle on the cylinder walls. Even when re-ringing an engine, if the cylinders hone properly, a moly ring is your best choice.

What is “torque plate” honing?

Torque plate honing is when a suitable steel or cast iron plate is bolted to the block deck(s) while honing to simulate the stress applied to the bores when the head(s) are installed. If a cylinder is first bored with a torque plate and then measured with the plate removed, the bore will be out of round, sometimes as much as .002”!! If you think of it in reverse, when a cylinder is bored without a plate, once the head is installed, the bore is no longer round at the top, by an equivalent amount. This does not mean that honing without torque plates is an unsatisfactory method. In fact, all the factories routinely do this, as well as most engine shops. What a torque plate hone will do for you is allow the engine to “break in” faster, use less oil, and produce a little more power due to better ring sealing. Torque plates are specific to the engine family, and are relatively expensive. We have torque plates for both small and big block Chevrolets, 429/460 Fords, 302/351/400 Fords, small and big block Chryslers, and AMC. We also have access to Ford 390/428 torque plates. We routinely use torque plates for gaseous fuels as they have a much longer break in period then gasoline.

Can I use this no name brand 10W 30 oil for my engine break in?

No. Your break in period is the most crucial time for quality oil. Your camshaft depends on the oil to wear in properly and not scuff. Several times a year we have people bring in damaged lifters and camshafts, looking for reasons why they failed. Many times the failure was due to inferior oil quality or simply too light a weight for the application. We recommend a minimum 10W 40 for stock engines, 15W 40 for heavy duty engines and diesels, and 20W 40 or 50 for race engines. Use only a quality brand of oil, as a few dollars saved during the initial run in could cost you significantly more in the long run. We also recommend switching to synthetic oil after 5000 to 10000 kilometers of usage with conventional oil. Contact us with any other questions regarding oil.

How much compression can I use and still run pump gasoline?

There are exceptions to these rules, but for the most part, normal usage vehicles can go as high as 9.5:1. Towing is limited to under 9:1, and for extreme towing, 8.5:1 or less is required. Aluminum heads can allow generally up to 1 full point of compression and still work with pump gasoline due to the thermal conductivity of aluminum. Street cars running large camshafts, high stall torque converters and low gears can be built to as much as 10.5:1 without worry as long as the timing is set correctly.

Is race gasoline a worthwhile purchase for me?

It can be. If you are running a high performance vehicle, whether it be a drag car or a dirt bike, race gasoline allows your engine to make its’ full power, run cooler, and avoid damaging detonation. If you are considering building an engine for a specific purpose, such as oval track racing or mud bogs, then high compression coupled with race gasoline will pay huge dividends of horsepower and torque. When you add up the cost of a barrel or two of race gasoline and compare it to what it would cost to produce that same increase in power with alternate methods, it always makes financial sense to choose the high compression route. Couple high compression with alternate power parts such as ported heads and roller cams, and now you have the combination to annihilate the competition! We routinely build engines in excess of 12:1 when race fuel is intended, and the customer is always happy with the choice.

I want to build an engine that will rev to 6500, what do I have to do to my oiling system?

Most of the time all that is required is an oil pan that holds a minimum of 6 litres, a stock high quality oil pump, and proper clearances in the engine. A windage tray is always a good investment. A crank scraper is also a good idea, although you will have to build one unless you run a Chevrolet. We may suggest you run an oil cooler in high load applications such as marine and heavy duty towing.

What should I set my timing to?

For stock engines, set it to manufacturer’s specifications. Other applications will vary from 30 to 40 degrees of total timing, with the majority working most efficiently at 34 to 36 degrees. Total timing must be checked when it is “all in”, which is usually around 3500 RPM. A quick “blip” of the throttle over 3500 while using a timing light will determine if this is correct. We will suggest a proper timing curve when you come to pick up your engine from us to get the maximum performance and life out of it.

What is “porting” and is it right for me?

Porting is a procedure we do to specific areas of your cylinder heads to improve airflow. Any time you reduce a restriction in either the intake or exhaust tract, you benefit with additional torque and horsepower. A side benefit to this is porting will usually not affect fuel economy, unless your right foot gets heavy due to the new found entertainment of increased power. Think of it as power when you need it, mileage when you don’t. Depending on your choice of engine and your specific requirements, a basic pocket port job can range from 3 to 6 hours. This will provide the greatest value. We are highly skilled and can professionally race port a set of heads, if that is what you require.

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